Marketing tactics make people think tools will heal them, but there are more critical layers to rehab.
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Injured wrist? Build back confidence by controlling your own stress.
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I consider the cuff more like the core. If we train with more specific positions to our sport and progress force, velocity, and volume we should be addressing these muscles adequately.
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Do we press much with climbing? No, not really. We definitely do way more pulling. But it isn’t that simple.
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Pull up training is a core training exercise for climbers. I likely prescribe grip variation more often than most (for rehabilitation purposes), but coaches must also understand the difference.
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There are so many options to help alleviate the symptoms of an athletic lifestyle. Blaming the structure is way too simple to be helpful.
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Shoulder pain is the top complaint in climbers. Here are some practical modifications for climbers with shoulder pain.
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Using an overcoming isometric, you can load to pain tolerance (injured climber) or peak force (training).
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There are many options for loading the lateral elbow. The simplest and most confrontational are overcoming isometrics at variable intensities.
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Because of its slow progression, athletes might have a sudden onset that they attribute to be the cause of their pain. This can be misleading and often scares athletes from further loading. That is a mistake.
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Lateral tendon pain (tennis elbow) is considerably more common than medial tendon pain. It occurs in approximately 10% of the manual labor force, has a high recurrence rate, and does not require treatment to resolve.
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Cubital tunnel syndrome is commonly described as pain/tingling/weakness down the inside of the forearm to the pinky and ring finger. What can you do?
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If you go into a healthcare provider's office and walk out with "the list" of what to do, go somewhere else.
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Climbers elbow describes front sided elbow pain. In my opinion, it's a consequence of too much full range loading at the elbow.
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Sure, downclimbing might be necessary in certain scenarios. But what about from a training standpoint?
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It's a common misconception that doing a slow negative will increase muscular recruitment and strength. Learn why.
Read MoreWhat’s the risk or reward when it comes to static stretches? Let’s look at context.
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Try one of these simple suggestions to build more resilience in your elbow joints.
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Easy climbing is one of the most common mistakes I see climbers make with PIP joint pain, especially when the pain is in the middle and ring finger.
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Tape use has nuance, especially with injuries. Regarding pulley injuries, it reduces stress while re-introducing loads. But reducing stress to prevent an injury doesn’t make sense.
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