Tape use has nuance, especially with injuries. Regarding pulley injuries, it reduces stress while re-introducing loads. But reducing stress to prevent an injury doesn’t make sense.

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonSeptember 13, 2022finger, injury, tissue, illustration, tendons, ligaments, A2, pain, misconception

Doing Random Rehab Gives You Random Results

One of the important keys to successful rehab is consistency. Loads, directions, velocities, and tut need to be reproducible. If not, the feedback from loading isn’t accurate.

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonSeptember 13, 2022finger, injury, tissue, illustration, tendons, ligaments, A2, pain, misconception

Understanding The PIP Joint

The PIP joint accounts for 85% of the motion for grip strength— but it’s commonly injured in climbers.

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonSeptember 1, 2022pulley, finger, injury, tissue, illustration, tendons, ligaments, A2, pip, joint

Understanding Lumbrical Muscle Injuries

If you climb on pockets regularly you’ve likely encountered a strained lumbrical.

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonSeptember 1, 2022pulley, finger, injury, tissue, illustration, tendons, ligaments, A2

Causes of Finger Joint Pain (Including Carpal Bossing)

Our hands are not beautiful. Swollen joints, thickened skin, crooked digits etc. That’s the life of a climbers hand. Something people don’t consider is why it actually happens.