Is Downclimbing Useful?
Have you ever wondered, “Is it even worth downclimbing?”
From a practical standpoint, yes, it is. There are times when downclimbing is a necessity. You know the examples.
But what about with training? Is downclimbing useful then?
The first thing to consider is that muscle fatigue is contraction specific. This means concentric, isometric, and eccentric contractions experience fatigue by different mechanisms.
In addition, the ability to recover is also different. This has implications for training frequency.
When climbing up (mostly concentric/isometric), fatigue is primarily due to metabolite accumulation (pumped). When climbing down (mostly eccentric), fatigue is due to increasing Ca+ ions in the cellular space, not metabolites.
With concentric contractions (climbing up, left video), fatigue accumulation can increase motor unit recruitment (strength gains). However, with eccentric contractions (climbing down, right video), fatigue accumulation does not increase motor unit recruitment in the same way, even though it will make you sorer the following day(s).
This is the real risk with too much downclimbing inside.
The soreness/fatigue (muscle stretching and Ca+ accumulation) that follows high-volume eccentric training are, in fact, muscle damage. In addition, this type of fatigue reduces coordination and further improvements.
Multiple studies show this type of fatigue takes 2-4 days to recover from. If you're going to do it, you better plan on having less frequent sessions.
see the difference. left = concentric contractions; right =eccentric contractions:
A few recommendations when using more extended sets on the climbing wall
Spend more time going laterally and vertically than going down. This takes a broader wall, of course.
If going up/down (space limited), climb down quickly and spend more time going upwards slowly (not the video example).
Have your belayer lower you quickly before getting back on the wall, or use an auto-belay. I don't think there's a legitimate excuse to go up/down routes, personally.
Use a treadwall and get specific with distance and/or time under tension. This is the best-case scenario.
Key takeaways:
Downclimbing can be necessary from a practicality lens.
But lots of downclimbing can take a while to recover from.
If the goal is to build capacity. We can build it more specifically while at the same time reducing the recovery time between sessions.