A Load Distribution Problem

Disproportionately, when climbers only use a flat edge with a fixed depth, the middle two fingers take most of the stress.

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Taping Option for Flexible Finger Joints

Flexible DIP joint? Watch this tip.

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Want Stronger Fingers? Think About the Hand.

There are 30 muscles in the hand alone.

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Big Edge Symptoms in Climbing

It’s common to experience pain on a large edge with compression to the tendon sheath and A4 pulley.

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

All Loads Have Risk

I’m psyched that more climbers are getting into weight training to supplement their health. The downside is the additional load on the fingers.

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Why Climbers' Hands Look Less Symmetrical

At some point, a climber’s finger joints start looking less symmetric side-to-side. Why?

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Stop Scraping and Rolling the Tendon Sheath

Please stop scraping with a tool, or rolling over it with a ring. Those are truly useless.

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Necessary Evils When Climbing

Climbing on small holds requires leverage, and multiple factors define leverage for an individual.

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Crimps and Active Tension on Fingers

When we talk about 'active positions' in climbing, we're referring to grips like the half and full crimp.

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Understanding Slopers and Passive Stress on Fingers

If you have been climbing for a while, it's easy to understand that hanging below slopers uses much more friction than on other hold types.

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Avoid This Very Common Hangboarding Mistake

Do you do this mistake when you’re on the hangboard?

Videos, General Climbing, Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonOctober 26, 2023finger

How To ACTUALLY Get Stronger Fingers

The Struggle Climbing Show asks Tyler about common pitfalls and shares tips for Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced climbers to level up their power.

Videos, General Climbing, Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonOctober 26, 2023finger

The Ins and Outs of Finger Strength

Understand the testing methods for finger strength, power, and how to improve what is holding you back from sending your project.

Videos, General Climbing, Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonOctober 26, 2023finger

Trying a Hangboard Training Method for 30 Days

How can you truly build finger strength?

Videos, General Climbing, Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonOctober 26, 2023finger

Why Does Not Loading Hurt?

Have you had the experience that not climbing made your fingers just as sore as loading them? This is due to the anatomy and mechanics of the synovial joint.

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 10, 2023ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Education Is Prevention

We all know that training volume is risky, but are there guidelines for what these athletes "shouldn't" do? That is a trickier question.

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 10, 2023ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Understanding A2 Pulley Ruptures

The A2 is the most commonly ruptured pulley in adult climbers (not kids) and is NOT common in other sports.

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 10, 2023ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Understanding A3 Pulley Abuse

The A3 pulley can tolerate more abuse than the A2 and A4 because of its attachment point (the volar plate).

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 10, 2023ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Fatigue Isn't One Thing

A common mistake in the climbing world is the assumption that finger boarding, rope climbing, limit bouldering, campusing, etc., all result in the same type of fatigue. Now we know this not to be true.

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 10, 2023ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Changing Leverage Isn't "Better"

Getting coordinated at finger extension exercises will never transfer to rock climbing. We want recruitment, not random skills.

Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 10, 2023ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

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