The Difference Between Stress And Overuse

The body needs stress to build tolerance (capacity). But, as with anything, it has a finite capacity. It's relative.

Wrist Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 10, 2023ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Should you use bands to load painful tissue or joints?

Using a heavy band is a simple method to load a sore wrist before climbing. It's portable, easy to set up, and stresses the joint from multiple directions.

Wrist Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 1, 2023ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

10 Exercises for Climbers With Ulnar Sided Wrist Pain

Ulnar sided wrist pain is quite common in climbers. Here are 10 exercise videos to help.

Wrist Injury RehabTyler NelsonOctober 24, 2022muscles, ligaments, tendons, strength, joint, wrist, video

Eccentrics Are Overprescribed for Climbers

Research shows that eccentrics aren't any "better" than different types of mechanical load (isometrics, isotonics, BFR etc.).

Wrist Injury Rehab, General ClimbingTyler NelsonOctober 24, 2022ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

The Confusion of Antagonists / Opposition Training for Climbers

I often hear: “I do too much of _ which means I need to train the opposite to make sure I am ‘balanced’.” This is assumed to reduce injury risk. The reality is, you’re not balanced.

General Climbing, Wrist Injury RehabTyler NelsonOctober 24, 2022misconception, recovery, muscles