Doing nothing for a warm up is like taking a road trip on a quarter tank of gas…and too much intensity for a warm up may leave you overly fatigued before the fun even happens!
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The menstrual cycle is a highly individualized experience, and gaining insight into its phases can provide individual athletes with tools to improve their training, recovery, and overall performance.
Read MoreEverybody wants stronger fingers. Here's how.
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As coaches, we need to help our athletes learn to focus on the right thing, at the right time. There is a time to prepare, a time to reflect and a time to perform.
Read MoreLearn why climbers should train differently than weight lifters, programming ideas, common mistakes, and more.
Read MoreDid you know you don’t have to "hang" on your fingers to increase their strength?
Read MoreWhen training finger strength off the wall, the goal is to improve muscle size, recruitment, and connective tissue stiffness. To do this effectively, it’s essential to understand an athlete's current peak force, often referred to as their one-rep max (1RM).
Read MoreOne of the most enduring questions in sports performance is this: How do we get our strength training adaptations to transfer to our sport?
Read MoreWhile finger strength often gets the spotlight, the ability to generate quick, high force through your hands, or contact strength, is what can make the difference in your climbing
Read MoreAs a coach and climber, I’ve spent years exploring and refining the best approaches to training finger strength.
Read MoreAs a climber and coach, I've spent countless hours talking with athletes about finger strength training.
Read MoreIncorporating BFR into your routine can be as simple as doing one or two sessions a week during a training cycle.
Read MoreUnderstanding the difference between active recruitment and passive tension in finger training has the potential to unlock new levels of performance, especially for climbers who feel they've plateaued.
Read MoreWhether you’re pushing V14s or working through your first 5.10, training smarter is often the key to unlocking better performance, not necessarily training harder.
Read MoreDiscussing different conditions concerning the elbow which you might encounter as a climber.
Read MoreFinger morphology, the frame work for how climbers should understand strength training, why training on an unlevel edge could be useful, what a talon grip is, and a paradox we all run into when starting to strength train.
Read MoreTop tips for training on spray walls and home walls.
Read MoreTop tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshopper Board.
Read MoreHow to foster growth mindset vs fixed mindset, dealing with emotional regulation in teens, and more.
Read MoreStrength training will increase power through recruitment gains for athletes with less training experience, particularly youth athletes. But thoroughly trained or more advanced athletes likely need a more nuanced approach with distinct phases.
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