A Comprehensive Guide to Blood Flow Restriction (BFR) Training for Climbers
In my years working with athletes, especially climbers, one training methodology that has consistently sparked curiosity is Blood Flow Restriction (BFR) training.
You may have seen climbers on social media or in gyms strapping what looks like tourniquets to their arms or legs, and wondered, “What exactly is going on here?” Is it dangerous? Is it effective? Well, let’s dive into what BFR is, where it comes from, and why climbers like Jonathan Siegrist, Mercedes Palm, and many others have used it as part of their training and rehab regimen.
What is Blood Flow Restriction (BFR) Training?
BFR training involves using cuffs or bands to partially restrict blood flow to the muscles during exercise. These cuffs are applied to the arms or legs, typically at the upper extremity near the deltoid for arms and below the hips for legs. Unlike traditional strength training where high loads are required to stimulate muscle growth and strength, BFR allows you to achieve similar benefits with significantly lighter weights.
What happens during BFR is that the venous blood flow is restricted, meaning blood can enter the muscle but cannot leave as quickly. This creates a hypoxic (low oxygen) environment in the muscle, which tricks your body into recruiting larger motor units (muscle fibers), similar to when you lift heavy weights. Additionally, BFR induces a robust hormonal response, including increased levels of growth hormone and testosterone, both of which play crucial roles in recovery, tendon health, and muscle adaptation.
The Origins and Science Behind BFR
BFR was developed by a Japanese bodybuilder named Yoshiaki Sato in the 1960s. He noticed his legs felt similarly pumped during a long, seated funeral ceremony as they did after a heavy workout. Curious about this phenomenon, he began experimenting by wrapping elastic bands around his limbs during exercise. His personal injury recovery success with this technique led to more formal research, and today BFR is backed by numerous studies, particularly in rehabilitation settings.
In fact, BFR is well-documented for use in elderly populations and those recovering from surgeries, such as ACL reconstructions. These populations benefit because they can maintain or even build muscle mass without needing to lift heavy loads, which would otherwise be harmful. In 2019 alone, over 900 peer-reviewed articles were published on BFR.
How Does BFR Fit into Climbing Training?
For climbers, BFR is a versatile tool. I’ve incorporated BFR into both rehab programs for acute injuries, such as pulley sprains, and in general strength-building phases. For example, when someone is recovering from a finger injury, using BFR allows them to maintain forearm and finger strength without placing excessive stress on the injured area.
Example Use in Finger Strength and Injury Rehab
Let’s say a climber is recovering from an A2 pulley strain. We can use BFR to target the arm and finger flexors indirectly by performing bicep curls, tricep extensions, or wrist curls under BFR conditions. This allows for muscle fatigue and increased blood flow to the injured area without putting direct stress on the injury.
I also utilize BFR for maintenance during injuries. Jonathan Siegrist, a top climber who worked with me, used BFR after a severe shoulder injury from a mountain biking accident. By performing lower-intensity exercises with BFR cuffs on his arms, Jonathan was able to maintain his finger and forearm strength while his shoulder healed.
BFR for Strength Training and Active Recovery
BFR can also be used for general strength training or even in the days following a climbing trip for active recovery. Take Mercedes Palm, for example. After a bouldering trip, she used BFR to help flush her muscles with blood and improve recovery.
Here’s why BFR works for recovery: during the rest phases between exercises, the restricted blood slowly builds up in the working muscles. When you release the cuff after your set, you create a rapid "flush" of blood and nutrients to the muscle, accelerating the recovery process. This helps clear metabolic waste and improve circulation, promoting muscle repair and reducing soreness.
Typical BFR Protocol for Strength Training
1 set of 30 repetitions, followed by 3 sets of 15 repetitions, with short rest periods (30–60 seconds) between sets.
Exercises like bicep curls, wrist curls, or even finger curls can be done at lower loads (around 20–30% of your max) while still achieving great results due to the enhanced muscle recruitment from BFR.
Aim for 15-20 minutes total for a complete session.
Is BFR Safe?
This is the question I get most frequently. The short answer is, yes—when used correctly and with the right equipment. Early concerns about BFR involved the potential for blood clots or cardiovascular stress. However, extensive research has shown BFR to be safe for most healthy individuals when guidelines are followed. Using flexible, elastic cuffs designed for BFR ensures that you are not cutting off arterial blood flow completely, which would be dangerous.
That said, if you’re new to BFR or have underlying health conditions, it’s important to seek guidance from a professional. I also offer detailed courses on how to safely incorporate BFR into your training, and you can find more information on my website.
Incorporating BFR into Your Climbing Training
Incorporating BFR into your routine can be as simple as doing one or two sessions a week during a training cycle. Whether you are in a performance phase, a recovery phase, or preparing for a climbing trip, BFR can provide valuable benefits in terms of muscle adaptation, strength, and recovery without the need for high loads.
If you're interested in learning more about how to implement BFR or how it fits into your specific training needs, check out my courses or reach out to me directly.