Train Smarter, Not Harder: Insights from The Struggle Climbing Show
In rock climbing, whether you’re pushing V14s or working through your first 5.10, training smarter is often the key to unlocking better performance, not necessarily training harder.
I recently joined The Struggle Climbing Show to break down what we can learn from some of the best climbers in the world by examining their training philosophies, struggles, and lessons. Here’s what we discovered and how you can apply these insights to your own climbing journey.
1. Everyone Learns the Hard Way
The overarching theme from many elite climbers is that they’ve learned the hard way that more is not always better. Whether it was Alex Johnson's over-reliance on her strengths or Alex Honnold’s realization that his finger strength lagged behind his peers, the pros eventually came to understand that smarter, more focused training leads to better results.
For most climbers—myself included—overtraining often becomes a default, especially early on. It’s natural to think, "If I just keep climbing and training, I'll get better." But that approach can backfire. In fact, many of the climbers I work with are pushing themselves too hard without realizing that they’re sabotaging their own progress by not resting or training effectively.
2. Training Should Be Individualized
One of the biggest mistakes climbers make is trying to follow cookie-cutter training plans. Whether it’s hangboarding, campus boarding, or max hangs, not every training tool works for every climber. As I mentioned in the podcast, athletes have different biomechanics, backgrounds, and needs. A tool like campus boarding, for example, might make sense for someone building explosive power, but for someone like Allison Vest, who already has exceptional finger strength, it may not be effective for improving her power output.
Takeaway: You should test your own strengths and weaknesses to tailor a training program specific to your needs. At Camp4 Human Performance, we focus on testing to determine an athlete’s unique requirements and make adjustments accordingly. This ensures you’re training what you need to work on, not just what the internet tells you is important.
3. Maximize Your Gains with Less Training
One key lesson from the show is that less can be more. Alex Johnson, for instance, noted that as she became more specific with her training, she started doing less but still saw more gains. This comes down to efficiency: training the right things with precision, rather than cramming in volume without intention.
If your training session is leaving you crawling out of the gym every time, you’re likely doing too much. Training is supposed to complement your climbing, not detract from it. Proper strength and power training should leave you feeling like you could still do more, not completely wiped out. This is something I talk about often with clients: the goal is to improve performance, not accumulate fatigue.
4. Speed vs. Strength: Understanding Contact Strength
One really interesting point that came up during the podcast was Alex Johnson’s explanation of her climbing performance. While her fingers might not be as strong as some of her peers, her contact strength is exceptional. What does that mean? Simply put, it’s not just about how much force you can exert—it’s about how fast you can exert that force.
For climbers who rely on dynamic movements, like boulderers, being able to latch onto holds quickly is sometimes more important than being able to squeeze really hard. If you have great contact strength, you might be able to get away with lower overall finger strength because you can grab holds faster and more efficiently.
Takeaway: If you’re a climber who struggles with dynamic moves or steep bouldering, focus on improving your rate of force development through plyometric exercises, dynamic hangboarding, or short, powerful bouldering sessions.
5. Rest and Recovery Are Non-Negotiable
Across the board, rest and recovery were major themes. It’s something I emphasize with my clients, especially those who are overtraining. Many of the elite climbers, like Alex Megos and Kevin Jorgeson, talked about learning the importance of true rest—the kind that doesn’t involve sneaking in an extra yoga session or a long run. Rest means rest.
Climbers tend to equate progress with volume, but without rest, you don’t allow your body to adapt and improve. Chronic fatigue can also lead to injury, and this is something I see all the time with finger and tendon issues in climbers. Overuse is far more common than acute injuries caused by limit moves.
Takeaway: Build true rest into your training routine. A well-rested body performs better, recovers faster, and is far less prone to injury.
6. Focus on Long-Term Gains, Not Short-Term Wins
One of the most valuable takeaways from looking back at the experiences of elite climbers is that training is a long-term game. Alex Honnold, for example, acknowledged that his finger strength wasn’t on par with his peers, but he made up for it with technique and footwork honed over years. The key is understanding that incremental gains made over time will far outlast any quick win you might achieve by overtraining for a few months.
If you hit a plateau, don’t immediately jump to more volume. Instead, analyze your training. Are you doing the same things over and over? Are you neglecting recovery? Are you truly challenging yourself in areas where you’re weak?
Applying What the Pros Have Learned
The truth is, the best climbers in the world have struggled in many of the same ways we do. They’ve overtrained, relied too much on their strengths, and suffered injuries from not recovering enough. But they’ve also learned valuable lessons along the way, which we can apply to our own training.
Whether you’re a weekend warrior or pushing into the upper grades, the principles remain the same: train with intention, recover well, and don’t be afraid to focus on quality over quantity. By taking these lessons to heart, you can progress in a sustainable way and avoid the pitfalls that come with pushing too hard for too long.
Want to dial in your training even further? At Camp4 Human Performance, we specialize in individualized assessments that help climbers find exactly what they need to reach the next level. Book a consultation today and start training smarter, not harder.
Key Takeaways:
More isn’t always better. Focus on quality over volume.
Individualized training is crucial—find what works for your unique body and goals.
Rest and recovery are just as important as training.
Focus on long-term progress, not quick gains.
Understand the difference between finger strength and contact strength.