Finger Strength Training: Achieving Better Transfer to Climbing
One of the most enduring questions in sports performance is this: How do we get our strength training adaptations to transfer to our sport?
This has been debated for years, and there isn't a single definitive answer. However, when it comes to finger strength training, we can use non-climbing exercise science to better understand how to make those adaptations transfer effectively to rock climbing.
In this post, we’ll cover the key points from previous discussions, review the role of coordination in strength training, and explore a method for improving finger strength transfer to climbing performance.
Review: Neural and Structural Adaptations
In earlier discussions, we explored the neural and structural adaptations that come from a proper strength training program. These adaptations include increased muscle recruitment, hypertrophy, improved lateral force transmission, and enhanced connective tissue stiffness. These changes are the result of off-the-wall finger training, helping climbers develop the strength needed to grip small holds and exert force in demanding positions.
Finger Strength Training Methods
There are various methods to achieve these adaptations, such as hanging from a fingerboard, pulling on a strain gauge, or lifting a block. As long as the intensity is high, the fatigue is low, and the exercises are progressive, all these methods are effective. No one method is inherently better for climbers; they all provide the hands and fingers with controlled loads greater than those typically experienced on the wall.
The Real Limitation: Coordination Adaptation
While finger strength training helps us get stronger, one key limitation is the coordination adaptation. Coordination is the foundation of strength training—without it, you can’t get stronger. This is why climbers use stable, simple movements to target specific muscle groups. But here’s the issue: while hanging from a flat edge may seem easy to learn after developing connective tissue tolerance, this type of coordination doesn’t directly transfer to harder climbing grades. The coordination required for finger strength training differs from what you need on the wall.
The Difference Between Strength Training and Climbing
Even though many outdoor climbs feature flat edges, the intensity, body position, hold depth, and finger joint angles vary greatly between training methods and actual climbing. On the wall, we can’t always position ourselves perfectly above or below every hold like we can during strength training. And that’s okay—it highlights the need for specific training approaches to build both strength and coordination.
Why Climbing Alone Isn't Enough
A common misconception is that climbing alone can sufficiently improve finger strength. But as difficulty increases, it’s often the whole-body power output and movement complexity that increase, not just finger strength. In reality, climbing harder reflects increased movement competence rather than pure strength gains.
Improving your ability to hold smaller grips likely depends more on efficient body positioning than on simply producing more force with your fingers. Your lower extremities, hip, and shoulder mobility play a major role in optimizing holds, reducing the need for brute finger strength.
Strength Training Supports Competence
Proper strength training enables climbers to gain new competencies through more intense and frequent climbing practice. While climbers focus heavily on movement and body tension, finger strength training has often been neglected. It’s important to create a balance—finger strength training should serve as a tool to enhance climbing efficiency, not replace climbing practice.
Coordination and Rate of Force Development
As climbers progress, they learn to apply only the necessary amount of force to complete moves efficiently. Over-gripping is rarely an effective strategy. And when it comes to limit-level bouldering, it’s not just about force; the rate at which you develop that force becomes a limiting factor. In other words, strength precedes power, always.
The Drill: Improving Coordination and Transfer
To bridge the gap between strength gains and climbing performance, incorporate regular sessions that focus on the coordination adaptation of the fingers and hands. Think of it as reversing the typical approach of reducing foothold size to increase body tension. Instead, target smaller, more difficult handholds while climbing to optimize your grip and body positioning.
This approach involves blending a minimal edge and repeater protocol, but on the wall instead of a hangboard. The goal is to ascend routes with holds that are difficult relative to your current ability, creating the additional coordination adaptation that traditional fingerboards can’t offer.
Practical Application: How to Perform the Drill
This drill can be thought of as a repeater set. Climb 6-10 hand moves in 40-60 seconds, spending about 5-7 seconds per hold. Rest for 3-5 minutes between sets, and perform 3-5 sets before your regular indoor climbing session. If you’re outside, this drill simulates pulling on your project and holding positions to prime your fingers.
The difficulty of the holds should match your ability, and the volume should depend on your training experience. For advanced climbers, this drill can be used as a dedicated climbing session during a strength training phase. Less experienced climbers can integrate this methodology into their routine to supplement off-the-wall training.
Coordination Happens Quickly
The good news is that coordination adaptations happen quickly. If you’ve already been training recruitment off the wall, the additional focus on coordination will quickly improve your performance on challenging holds. Most climbers don’t lack recruitment; they lack coordination, and this drill will help close that gap.
Takeaways
Remember, the difference between strength and power is the rate of force development. By training for strength at a low volume and gaining coordination on the wall, you’ll be able to turn that strength into power when you resume regular climbing.
In summary:
Strength training adaptations must happen off the wall for 3-6 weeks, with a focus on recruitment, hypertrophy, and tissue stiffness.
Incorporate coordination drills using small holds before your climbing session to improve transfer to climbing performance.
Adjust the difficulty and volume based on your training experience, aiming to progressively overload your fingers while maintaining proper recovery.
As you apply these principles, you’ll notice a significant improvement in your finger strength and climbing efficiency.