Understanding Finger Training Methods: A Deep Dive into Isometric Finger Strength Training
In this post, we’ll break down the similarities and differences between some of the most commonly used finger strength training methods and how to identify appropriate training loads using the Tindeq Progressor.
This will give you a clear understanding of how to tailor your training to meet your climbing goals.
The Basics of Finger Strength Training
When training finger strength off the wall, the goal is to improve muscle size, recruitment, and connective tissue stiffness. To do this effectively, it’s essential to understand an athlete's current peak force, often referred to as their one-rep max (1RM).
In climbing, we don’t often use the full range of motion like we do in exercises such as pull-ups or deadlifts. However, the maximum load you add when hanging, or the maximum force produced during a 2-4 second pull, can be considered your climbing-specific 1RM. It's important to distinguish this from the load you can hold for 7-10 seconds, which focuses more on building stamina than peak force.
Why Stamina is Important but Not the Whole Story
Building stamina for climbing is essential, but there’s a more effective way to do this—on the wall. Training endurance and stamina on the climbing wall results in better, more transferable adaptations than performing the same tasks on a fingerboard. That said, finger strength training off the wall can still serve a critical role in developing peak force and connective tissue resilience.
How to Test Peak Force
For accurate testing, I use the Tindeq Progressor alongside various training tools, including a 25mm tension climbing block, an unlevel Metacarp edge, and a rounded Tension climbing hold. Research shows that larger edge sizes, up to 30mm, help increase peak vertical forces, with an athlete's grip style often self-selecting between open-hand and half-crimp positions.
When training the full-crimp position, a 20mm edge is most effective. I typically recommend using a half-crimp or slightly obtuse half-crimp grip for training, as research suggests that larger joint angles (like those used in open-hand grips) tend to produce less force and fatigue more quickly, which is not ideal for finger strength training.
Key Testing Methods
In my testing process, I alternate between two styles of isometric contractions: overcoming isometrics (where I actively curl or pull against an edge) and yielding isometrics (where I resist force applied against my grip).
Overcoming Isometric Test: Here, I test finger strength by curling down on different edges. The objective is to measure how much active recruitment I can achieve in the finger flexors.
Yielding Isometric Test: This measures how much load the fingers can resist. It’s more reflective of real-world climbing scenarios, where we need to control the load on our fingers while using the rest of the body.
The difference in force between these two methods typically lands around 30%. This aligns with what we know about the difference between concentric (contracting) and eccentric (lengthening under load) muscle actions, with the latter producing more force.
Translating These Numbers to Fingerboard Training
Once I have my peak force numbers, I can translate them into practical loads for fingerboard training. For instance, if my 1RM on a two-arm hang from an unlevel edge is 362 lbs, I would train at 85% of that, or around 307 lbs. Subtracting my body weight (160 lbs), I know I need to add roughly 150 lbs for optimal training intensity.
For one-arm training, the process is similar, but because my strength-to-weight ratio is close to my body weight, I could use bodyweight alone or slightly less to increase volume.
The Science Behind Grip Positions
A crucial takeaway is the importance of grip positions. Whether you choose a half-crimp, full-crimp, or open-hand grip, the intention behind the load and the grip position’s influence on muscle recruitment and connective tissue stress should guide your training. Generally, more force is produced with smaller joint angles, which results in less fatigue and muscle damage—important for building finger strength without compromising recovery.
Final Thoughts: Goals for Finger Strength Training
The primary goals for finger strength training off the wall are:
Increase Muscle Size and Recruitment: Use high-intensity loads to progressively overload the finger muscles, encouraging hypertrophy and improved recruitment of motor units.
Improve Connective Tissue Stiffness: High-intensity, fast-rate loads help stiffen the connective tissue, an essential factor for long-term injury prevention.
Enhance Climbing Practice Quality: Strength training alone won’t make you a better climber, but it can improve the quality of your climbing practice by giving you a better foundation for grip strength and control.
For your next finger strength session, choose a preferred method to overload the fingers in isolation, ideally at the start of your climbing day or training session. After you’ve activated the motor units, move to a 25-30mm edge to focus on loading the connective tissues. If you’re preparing for a project with small edges, you can integrate some yielding sets in a full crimp before climbing.