Mastering Finger Strength: My Approach to Sustainable Climbing Training
As a coach and climber, I’ve spent years exploring and refining the best approaches to training finger strength.
One of the most common questions I get from clients is, "How do I strengthen my fingers without overdoing it and getting injured?"
This is something I’ve explored in depth, including during my recent conversation on the Nugget Climbing Podcast.
Today, I want to break down some of the key insights from that discussion and give you a clear, actionable approach to sustainable finger strength training.
The Problem with Conventional Finger Strength Training
Finger strength is essential for climbers, but many climbers are training the wrong way and paying the price in injuries. The PIP joints (the middle joints in your fingers) are especially vulnerable, and if you consistently overload them with too much crimping or training on tiny holds, you’re likely to develop chronic pain or injury. Injuries like collateral ligament sprains and tendon pulley tears are not uncommon, especially when training is focused too heavily on the extremes of finger positions.
So how do you train fingers safely? The first step is rethinking the way you approach strength work. Many climbers believe that if they’re not hanging off a 10mm crimp, they’re not getting stronger—but that’s simply not true.
Prioritizing Active Flexion and Larger Holds
One of the most effective methods for building finger strength safely is active flexion training. This involves using larger, more comfortable edges that still allow you to train your fingers without the high-risk stress on the smaller joints. Tools like the Tindeq Progressor, wrist-wrench devices, and even larger edges on hangboards are excellent for building recruitment without overloading delicate tissues.
Active flexion training is about recruitment, which means you’re engaging more muscle fibers to pull hard, but in a safer, more controlled environment. The focus isn’t just on the tiny, high-risk crimps but on achieving the same level of muscular engagement with less stress on the joints. This approach is especially valuable when you’re combining climbing-specific training with supplementary strength work.
Understanding the Balance: Strength vs. Calisthenics
A lot of climbers get caught up in calisthenics—bodyweight exercises like muscle-ups, handstands, or complex movement patterns. While these are great for general fitness and skill acquisition, they don’t always transfer well to rock climbing, especially if your goal is to get stronger fingers or improve at the sport.
The key difference between strength training and calisthenics is in the specific adaptation you're aiming for. Strength training is about loading your muscles with enough weight or intensity to create real recruitment—engaging as many muscle fibers as possible. This kind of adaptation happens when you lift heavy weights, work with isometrics, or use resistance in a way that challenges your muscles at their limit.
When I work with clients, I focus on lifting heavy, incorporating exercises like deadlifts, bench presses, and rows. These movements build foundational strength that not only translates to better climbing performance but also reduces injury risk by fortifying the body’s overall resilience. If you want stronger fingers, don’t be afraid to step away from the hangboard occasionally and work on whole-body strength.
When (and How) to Train Finger Strength
Timing is critical when it comes to finger strength training. One of the most common mistakes I see climbers make is training their fingers at the wrong time—usually at the end of a long climbing session. By the time you’ve finished a hard bouldering session or a day of sport climbing, your muscles are already fatigued, and your ability to recruit new muscle fibers is compromised.
While you might still feel like you’re getting a good workout in on the hangboard at the end of the day, what you’re actually doing is stressing your tendons and ligaments without getting the recruitment that builds real strength. This is why I always tell climbers to train fingers when they’re fresh. That’s when you can push your muscles to their true limits without risking injury.
A typical finger training session for me or my clients will start with a warm-up—usually a combination of mobility work and easy pulling to get the muscles and tendons primed. After that, we move into more intense recruitment work on larger holds or tools like the Tindeq. The goal is to maximize recruitment while keeping the intensity at a level that doesn’t lead to injury.
Avoiding Injury: Building Long-Term Strength
The key to building long-term finger strength is avoiding injury in the first place. Once you get injured, you’re often looking at weeks or months of rehab, which can set your progress back significantly. In fact, most climbers I see in my clinic are dealing with finger injuries, many of which could have been avoided with more thoughtful training.
My own finger strength journey has spanned over a decade. I started out as a V6 climber, and my fingers were nowhere near as strong as they are today. The progress has been slow but steady, and a big part of that has been learning to build strength while managing risk. Injuries take you out of the game, and that’s the last thing you want when you’re trying to improve.
One of the best ways to prevent injury is by focusing on lower-risk strength-building tools, like wrist-wrench devices, uneven edges, and isometric holds on larger grips. These methods allow you to work your fingers without subjecting them to the repetitive strain that comes from tiny crimps or aggressive pulling.
Coordination and Motor Learning: The Secret to Finger Strength
Another critical element to consider is motor learning. Finger strength isn’t just about building muscle or stiffening connective tissue—it’s about teaching your body how to coordinate movement on small holds. Over time, your brain becomes better at positioning your body and fingers in a way that maximizes force on tiny holds, making you a more efficient climber.
Training finger strength without climbing regularly can limit how well your strength translates to actual climbing. This is why I always recommend a mix of on-the-wall practice and off-the-wall strength work. Your body learns how to use the strength you build when you apply it in real-world climbing situations, so it’s essential to keep both elements in your training.
Tailored Training for Maximum Results
At the end of the day, training for finger strength—like any aspect of climbing—needs to be tailored to the individual. Every climber is different. Your training age, injury history, climbing style, and goals all play a role in determining the best training plan for you. Some climbers may need to focus more on strength work, while others might need more targeted finger training or injury prevention exercises.
When I work with clients, I take all of these factors into account. Training plans should be personalized, based on your current needs and long-term goals. The best training is the kind that keeps you progressing steadily without injury.
Takeaways
If there’s one message I want to leave you with, it’s this: training finger strength is a long game. There are no shortcuts, but by training smart, you can develop strong, resilient fingers that will keep you climbing for years to come. Focus on recruitment, avoid unnecessary risks, and build your strength with a mix of climbing-specific and general strength training.
If you’re interested in learning more about my training philosophy or want help creating a tailored finger strength program, feel free to reach out or explore my coaching services. I’m passionate about helping climbers of all levels build strength safely and sustainably.