Understanding Active Recruitment vs. Passive Tension in Finger Training
As climbers, we’re always seeking the most effective way to strengthen our fingers, given how integral they are to performance. Over the years, traditional finger training methods like hangboarding have been the go-to for many athletes.
While useful, there’s growing evidence suggesting that focusing solely on hangboarding may not maximize our potential, particularly in well-trained athletes. Today, I want to dive into the difference between active recruitment and passive tension in finger training—two critical concepts that can reshape how we think about finger strength.
What is Active Recruitment?
To simplify, recruitment refers to the activation of motor units in our muscles. These units are responsible for generating the force needed to perform tasks, such as hanging onto a crimp or pulling on an edge. There are three basic types of motor units:
Type I (slow-twitch fibers) – These are used in low-intensity, endurance activities.
Type IIa (intermediate fibers) – These can function aerobically or anaerobically.
Type IIx (fast-twitch fibers) – These are the largest and most powerful, responsible for maximal force production.
The goal of finger training is to recruit as many of these motor units as possible, particularly the Type IIx fibers, which give us the strength needed for powerful, intense movements. Recruitment increases with consistent training, but once a climber reaches a high level of finger strength, it can plateau unless training shifts to target recruitment more specifically.
Passive Tension: What Is It?
Passive tension is the force generated in our muscles and tendons without actively engaging all the motor units. It's particularly evident during eccentric (lengthening) movements, such as when you lower yourself from a pull-up or hang on a fingerboard. During these actions, we’re not actively contracting our muscles to generate maximum force, but rather relying on the elasticity and mechanical properties of our tendons and muscle fibers.
The Problem with Traditional Hangboarding
Hangboarding protocols, especially those focused on heavy, maximal hangs, often rely more on passive tension than we realize. When you load up with a heavy hang, your body isn’t just using muscle recruitment to keep you on the board. It’s also relying on the natural passive tension in your tendons and muscles, which can support significant weight without needing as much active engagement from your muscles. This can limit how much you’re truly strengthening your fingers.
This doesn’t mean hangboarding is ineffective—far from it. However, as you become more advanced, traditional hangboard protocols may not offer the same recruitment benefits they once did. The longer hangs can also lead to fatigue before you've maximized recruitment, which is where a more targeted approach becomes necessary.
Active Recruitment: The Missing Puzzle Piece
To truly maximize finger strength, especially in well-trained climbers, we need to shift focus from passive tension to active recruitment. This means designing training that forces your muscles to engage more fully without relying on the elastic properties of your tendons. By doing this, you can increase the efficiency of your muscle fibers, recruiting more motor units and improving finger strength directly.
The approach I've been experimenting with involves shorter, higher-intensity efforts that isolate the finger flexors. Instead of long-duration hangs, I recommend brief, maximal pulls using devices like the Tindeq Progressor. These efforts focus on concentric (shortening) and isometric (static) contractions, which require higher levels of active recruitment. You can even use this method by standing and pulling against resistance, creating a more controlled environment to target your finger muscles.
The Evidence: Case Studies and Results
To give a real-world example, one of my clients, Joel, a dedicated climber, recently sent his first V14. We shifted his finger training away from heavy hangboarding and focused instead on active tension techniques, with an emphasis on finger coordination during his climbing sessions. The result? His finger strength improved by 30-40 pounds, an incredible feat given his already high level of conditioning. This kind of progress shows that advanced athletes can still see significant gains by shifting their approach to finger training.
What Does This Mean for Your Training?
For those new to finger training or still in the early stages of their climbing journey, traditional hangboarding protocols can still be beneficial. However, for well-trained climbers who’ve been hangboarding for years, it might be time to rethink your training strategy. Here’s how you can implement active recruitment into your routine:
Short Reps, High Intensity: Instead of long hangs, try doing shorter, maximal effort pulls. Focus on pulling as hard as you can for a few seconds, either using a fingerboard or tools like a tension block or the Tindeq Progressor.
Active Tension Training: Experiment with overcoming isometrics—this involves actively pulling against resistance in a controlled position, like a half-crimp, rather than simply hanging.
Track Progress: Measure your recruitment strength regularly. You might find that your ability to generate force improves significantly, even without adding weight to your hangs.
Balance Training: Remember, passive tension isn’t bad! We still use passive tension when climbing, and it plays an essential role in endurance. However, balancing your training to include both passive and active recruitment methods is the key to maximizing performance.
Takeaways
Understanding the difference between active recruitment and passive tension in finger training has the potential to unlock new levels of performance, especially for climbers who feel they've plateaued. By incorporating shorter, more focused efforts that emphasize active recruitment, we can not only improve finger strength but also create a more direct transfer of strength to our climbing. It’s an exciting development in the world of finger training, and I’m looking forward to seeing more climbers benefit from this approach.
If you’re ready to take your finger training to the next level, give this method a try—you might just find that it’s the missing piece you’ve been searching for.