Understand the testing methods for finger strength, power, and how to improve what is holding you back from sending your project.
Read MoreHow can you truly build finger strength?
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When should you start using this popular training tool?
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Climbers do a lot of random exercises in hopes of getting more power. But the most effective thing they can do is adjust how they lift weights.
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The C4PC bridges the gap between the skills coach and the fitness professional providing coaches with the knowledge and skill set to raise the standard of care and coaching in the climbing community and to become an elite professional in the field.
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I likely prescribe grip variation more often than most (rehabilitation purposes), but coaches must also understand the difference. The implications on your athletes are significant, especially those with shoulder and elbow pain.
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Strength training is intimidating, but trust me: If you can climb up a boulder, you can lift something heavy off the ground.
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Having strength and being able to apply strength are two different things. But your training should work both.
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Why can some climbers travel to far-flung areas and consistently climb at a high level, while some others are only able to turn in good performances at their local haunt?
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Topping out is anxiety-inducing for a lot of climbers. There are a few reasons for this, but most of them stem from the fact that climbing skills are terrain specific.
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As one becomes more effective at getting through submaximal climbs in fewer tries, one expects to do more of that level of climbing in a given day. The end result being not that less energy is spent on a mileage day, but actually that the mileage days get longer and harder – and even more energy is spent. I’m as guilty of this as anyone.
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Why can some climbers travel to far-flung areas and consistently climb at a high level, while some others are only able to turn in good performances at their local haunt?
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Strength is the peak, rather than the base, of our performance. Let’s look at what other factors influence our climbing performance before we ever get the chance to apply force to the wall.
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Research shows that eccentrics aren't any "better" than different types of mechanical load (isometrics, isotonics, BFR etc.).
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I often hear: “I do too much of _ which means I need to train the opposite to make sure I am ‘balanced’.” This is assumed to reduce injury risk. The reality is, you’re not balanced.
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Sure, downclimbing might be necessary in certain scenarios. But what about from a training standpoint?
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