We all know that training volume is risky, but are there guidelines for what these athletes "shouldn't" do? That is a trickier question.
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The A2 is the most commonly ruptured pulley in adult climbers (not kids) and is NOT common in other sports.
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The A3 pulley can tolerate more abuse than the A2 and A4 because of its attachment point (the volar plate).
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I likely prescribe grip variation more often than most (rehabilitation purposes), but coaches must also understand the difference. The implications on your athletes are significant, especially those with shoulder and elbow pain.
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A common mistake in the climbing world is the assumption that finger boarding, rope climbing, limit bouldering, campusing, etc., all result in the same type of fatigue. Now we know this not to be true.
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Getting coordinated at finger extension exercises will never transfer to rock climbing. We want recruitment, not random skills.
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Strength training is intimidating, but trust me: If you can climb up a boulder, you can lift something heavy off the ground.
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Taping should be part of progressive rehab plan, not a method to prevent one.
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Using a heavy band is a simple method to load a sore wrist before climbing. It's portable, easy to set up, and stresses the joint from multiple directions.
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Having strength and being able to apply strength are two different things. But your training should work both.
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Why can some climbers travel to far-flung areas and consistently climb at a high level, while some others are only able to turn in good performances at their local haunt?
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Topping out is anxiety-inducing for a lot of climbers. There are a few reasons for this, but most of them stem from the fact that climbing skills are terrain specific.
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As one becomes more effective at getting through submaximal climbs in fewer tries, one expects to do more of that level of climbing in a given day. The end result being not that less energy is spent on a mileage day, but actually that the mileage days get longer and harder – and even more energy is spent. I’m as guilty of this as anyone.
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Why can some climbers travel to far-flung areas and consistently climb at a high level, while some others are only able to turn in good performances at their local haunt?
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Strength is the peak, rather than the base, of our performance. Let’s look at what other factors influence our climbing performance before we ever get the chance to apply force to the wall.
Read MoreThis episode is all about training for ice climbing and mixed climbing.
Read MoreThis episode covers fast fingers vs. strong fingers, injury prevention and rehab, how to know when you're approaching junk mileage and common plateaus and how to break through.
Read MoreWhat are climbers currently doing that concerns him injury-wise, and how can they prevent / improve this? What is the future for the use of training and assessment, and the tools/gadgets/apps related to it?
Read MoreIn this episode, Tyler and Clayton cover training, injuries, principles and more. It’s helpful info for everyone, not just climbers!
Read MoreListen to this interview that covers a bunch of climbing topics like VBT, Smo2 and BFR.
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