In this episode, Mario talks to Tyler about what drives him.
Read MoreThis episode covers blood flow restriction training (BFR) and how it can be used for injury rehab, active recovery, or getting stronger. Tyler also discusses finger training and why most hangboard protocols are more similar than different.
Read MoreIn this episode, Tyler and Kris discuss how to look at the research, whether science is the end all be all, and what exactly is the context for all of this information.
Read MoreListen to this interview where Dr. Nelson discusses BFR and injury rehab.
Read MoreIn this interview, Neely and Tyler talk about using blood flow restriction training to help heal injuries and to maintain strength during performance phases.
Read MoreIn this interview, Neely and Tyler talk about the latest device for testing finger strength and power output and how it's revolutionizing climbing training.
Read MoreI talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal common tendon injuries in climbers using heavy isometric exercises and other surprising methodologies.
Read MoreIn this interview, Neely and Tyler talk about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol that requires no weights or pulleys.
Read MoreIn this interview, Dr. Tyler Nelson explains why climbers need to stretch, when to stretch, and what type of stretching is appropriate at different times.
Read MoreIn this interview, Tyler explains why we should be training power differently in climbing than we typically do.
Read MoreIn this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for endurance climbing.
Read MoreIn this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his latest research.
Read MoreIn this episode, Tyler explains how we should be warming up our youth teams (and ourselves) in order to make climbing sessions more effective, and more importantly, for injury prevention.
Read MoreIn this episode, Tyler explains the most common youth finger injuries, what ages are at highest risk, how to mitigate them, and what to do if a youth climber has a finger injury.
Read MoreIn this episode, Dr. Nelson talks about his new insights about the longstanding use of the fingerboard to train finger strength in climbing.
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Ulnar sided wrist pain is quite common in climbers. Here are 10 exercise videos to help.
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Research shows that eccentrics aren't any "better" than different types of mechanical load (isometrics, isotonics, BFR etc.).
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I often hear: “I do too much of _ which means I need to train the opposite to make sure I am ‘balanced’.” This is assumed to reduce injury risk. The reality is, you’re not balanced.
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TFCC injuries are complex, and rehab looks different from that of tendon injuries.
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Climbers can use this tool to stress different parts of the forearm (though I’m not always a fan of it with golfer’s elbow).
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