Fatigue Isn't One Thing
Fatigue is relative.
A common mistake in the climbing world is the assumption that finger boarding, rope climbing, limit bouldering, campusing, etc., all result in the same type of fatigue. Now we know this not to be true.
The typical fingerboard protocols (7-10 seconds max hangs) create a slow continuous stretch to the muscle fibers (eccentric-like). This slow stretch is mostly ca+ ion-based fatigue. Getting better at tolerating ca+ ions can be a valuable tool for building capacity; however, it has the downside of longer recovery times.
Another downside is the inability to assess fatigue with this type of exercise. Ca+ ion-based fatigue (and metabolite accumulation) reduces power output, not mechanical tension. So, even if you're muscles are tired, you could still do your max weighted hang. But that's not a good idea.
Rope climbing (similar to repeaters) can allow a short recovery time between contraction types (both concentric and eccentric), which creates both metabolite and ca+ ion fatigue. This is easily seen as an athlete powers out on a rope (power loss from metabolite accumulation), but it can be challenging to appreciate when doing repeaters on a fingerboard (low power).
Once a session continues beyond a power loss, the reliance on "hanging" increases, increasing the ca+ ion-based fatigue. This will equate to a longer recovery time between sessions. End the session with a power loss.
Limit bouldering, campus workouts, and overcoming isometrics (picture) are more concentric-like muscle contractions. Because we hang less/none (less time on every hold), there is less ca+ ion-based fatigue. This fatigue is mostly metabolite-based and is easy to see with a power or force loss. This is also the quickest to recover from.
Takeaways
Don't fingerboard if you feel tired. Completion does not equal adaptation.
Multiple days of rope climbing (back to back) will catch up to you. Try and end every session with a power loss.
Limit/redpoint/overcoming sessions should be easy to recover from, so long as you stop with a power loss. Doing more is not better. Fatigue will accumulate.
