Climbers do a lot of random exercises in hopes of getting more power. But the most effective thing they can do is adjust how they lift weights.
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While I won’t argue that the hangboard is an invaluable climbing training tool, our assumptions about how to use it, including that you should train in a full crimp or that hangs need to last for a certain duration (think 10-second max hangs), can be limiting.
Read MoreYou've likely heard that fingerboard training is good for advanced climbers and dangerous for beginners. In my experience testing and tracking professional climbers for many years, I’ve realized that this narrative is unsubstantiated. (Part 1/2)
Read MoreYou've likely heard that fingerboard training is good for advanced climbers and dangerous for beginners. In my experience testing and tracking professional climbers for many years, I’ve realized that this narrative is unsubstantiated. (Part 1/2)
Read MoreSome of you might wonder why we were even having this discussion. The best way to get super strong fingers is to do weighted hangs, right?
Read MoreClimbing isn’t that special… physiologically, that is. (Part 2/2)
Read MoreClimbing isn’t that special… physiologically, that is. (Part 1/2)
Read MoreAt first glance, it makes sense why we've used a fingerboard historically. Hanging on our fingers with added weight should equal more available force on the climbing wall. Well, this article will discuss how it isn't that simple, and in some instances, doing too much heavy and slow fingerboarding might reduce performance. And that's never our goal.
Read MoreCan proper training truly prevent climbing injuries and boost your performance?
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Over the last many years, I've invested a lot of time and effort in understanding the adaptations of finger strength training for climbing.
Read MoreWords have power. In our self-talk before we even begin climbing, in the things we say to each other on the hike in, in the things overheard at the crag, and in the vast quantity of media we all consume these days, words hold sway over our thoughts.
Read MoreAn April 2024 interview featuring Tyler on The Gnar Stool Podcast by Gnarly Nutrition.
Read MoreAn April 2024 interview featuring Tyler on The TrainingBeta Podcast.
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The first step to changing your narrative is becoming aware of it – observe your self-talk and its impact on your behavior, then make changes where necessary.
Read MoreAn interview featuring Tyler on Mountain Talk with George Bieker.
Read MoreStrength Training for Older Athletes, Contrarian Advice on Managing Injuries , What is 'Good Pain, and Poor Habits Outdoor Athletes Should Discard
Read MoreFind out why Jesse focused more on weight training than climbing last summer.
Read MoreTake your training, performance, and enjoyment to new heights this year.
Read MoreDo you do this mistake when you’re on the hangboard?
Read MoreThe Struggle Climbing Show asks Tyler about common pitfalls and shares tips for Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced climbers to level up their power.
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