Doing Random Rehab Gives You Random Results
One of the most important keys to successful rehab is consistency.
Loads, directions, velocities, and tut need to be reproducible. If not, the feedback from loading isn’t accurate.
how to start being consistent in rehab
The easiest way to start being consistent is by standardizing your warmup. I talk about this in my IPP (injury prevention program) for climbers, but it's even more relevant for finger injuries.
If you don't know previous sessions tut, hand move #, and grips, it's tough to micro-adjust your next session. The knee-jerk reaction is to stop loading because of sensitivity. Many times, that’s a mistake.
This is where your warmup routine becomes key. By doing the same thing every day, you're developing a new outcome prediction. If not, you're at the mercy of your emotional self. This fear, or prediction of injury, will keep you away from the average intensity necessary to keep your capacity. This is counterproductive.
the case for loading an injury
There is almost always a reason to load a sports injury. In very few cases is the recommendation to stop altogether. Unfortunately, even though this is what the science suggests, this is not the advice given to many.
In this picture, I'm showing you the safest, and my favorite, method for loading the fingers. By using the 4-finger drape, you get physical support over most of the annular pulleys. It is also easy to quantify, reproduce, and micro-adjust as time goes on.
The next position I suggest is on a more significant edge (30mm). This is to build tolerance to the A2 and A3 pulleys. You shouldn't expect your fingers to tolerate regular climbing until they can tolerate this type of controlled stress.
Even though the Tension Climbing flashboard doesn't have a 30mm edge, don't forget about the rounded top. The top is my favorite tool for the 4-finger drape but can also be used to half crimp with support over the DIP joint.
Key takeaways:
Random things = random results.
More important than the flashboard specifics is that you're finding a tolerable position and creating a new outcome prediction.
Confidence is most important. Nobody can build it for you.