Big Edge Symptoms in Climbing
It’s common to experience pain on a large edge with compression to the tendon sheath and A4 pulley.
At some point, the center of mass needs to be balanced below the fingers, and the edge creates a fulcrum of high pressure on the underlying structures.
Even though the edge size is “big” by climbing standards, that doesn’t mean this is risk-free.
I typically see beginners looking to train their fingers using bigger edges with added load, developing cysts proximal to (closer to the hand) the A4 pulley in these conditions.
The assumption is that big edges aren’t as risky, but that’s not necessarily true.
It’s just a different type of risk.
If the volume and pressure are high enough, the tendon will slide through its sheath (as the hand slowly opens when losing the grip position), creating minor irritations to the membrane. Once the membrane develops a small tear, the fluid will create a cyst at the edge of the pulley.
Too often, climbers with this behavior complain of an A4 pulley sprain but lack the reproducible symptoms and are diagnosed with an A4 pulley cyst on ultrasound.
In this case, the cyst was created by too much loading volume (jugs, large campus rungs, heavy barbells, big flat edges), not just the edge hanging.
My general recommendations for big edge training:
If flat, use one that covers the entire middle phalanx.
Use a more rounded edge, preferably an un-level one.
Train your hand/fingers with the wrist wrench or talon grip.
Stop doing so much stuff off the wall.
Reduce the volume of each session. You can have more short sessions.