Using the Wrist Wrench for Rock Climbers
I created this infographic to help people stress different sides of the forearm with the wrist wrench.
If the goal is to load the flexor side of the wrist (to train open hand finger/wrist strength), the cord is on the thumb side. If the goal is to load the extensor side of the wrist (to train extension strength), the cord is on the finger side.
Additionally, if the thumb is on the same side as the fingers with wrist flexion, it adds a level of bend at the wrist creating compression at the tendons in the carpal tunnel. This can be irritating on the tendons. The best option is to keep the thumb on the opposite while side keeping the wrist “neutral” as possible.
Some protocols for using this tool:
Peak force training: Heavy as you can lift and hold for 5s. 5-7 sets.
Strength endurance: 5s. lift, 3s. rest, x 4-6 reps at 85%. 4-6 sets.
Hypertrophy training: Lift to failure for 20-40s. at 65-75% intensity. 3-5 sets.
I've included this tool between strength training sets (non-climbing days) and have noted some valuable gains in open hand control on the wall. This would be an excellent tool to acquire for those with persistent non-specific wrist pain, diagnosed TFCC injuries, or for athletes who spend a lot of time climbing in areas with open hand compression.
But the wrist wrench isn’t always great for all people
Generally, I'm not too fond of eccentric exercise for golfer’s elbow. First, putting the hand supinated (palm up) on a bench feels weird for many athletes (we spend more time pronated), and second, most people don't get the correct load anyway.
If you're doing eccentric exercise as rehab, technically, it has to be a load that you can't lift back up (concentrically). That's why you need to use the other hand to help lift it. It's not that you can't get a significant load to your muscle-tendon unit because you can; it's a more considerable time expense, and it's somewhat scary to do by yourself.
Yesterday I decided to use the Moxy Monitor on the medial compartment with the wrist wrench. To be blunt, I was f-ing blown away by how much mechanical stress this put on my medial elbow. What I did was 3 sets of 30-seconds of time under tension at 40lbs. In this position, the wrench tries to extend the hand while you hold an isometric for time.
It is incredibly similar to an eccentric muscle contraction because you are fighting the load from opening the forearm. Regarding loading the elbow, this produced the most muscle activity than any other method I've tried for the medial compartment.
Something additionally interesting, when I put the SmO2 monitor on the finger flexors, I saw a similar desaturation trend. The desaturation with the wrench was more than when I tested myself on a 20mm edge at 70% intensity to failure.
I'm not advocating that you use the wrench and ditch your fingerboard. I am advocating that it's a good load to the medial elbow and the fingers in an open hand position.
See it in the video:
Key takeaways:
You can use the wrist wrench a bunch of different ways.
There are a few DIY videos on Youtube I'd suggest checking out if you're interested in building a wrist wrench on your own. I've had clients do it for as little at $7-10.