Finger Training Methodologies and Progressions for Rock Climbers

Description:

This two-day online course is designed for climbers, coaches, and therapists who want to understand the current science of finger training program design. As a follow-up to the Upper Extremity/Finger Testing Course, this advanced training dives into the research and practical applications of effective finger training strategies.

The course will be online from 8am - 11:00am Mountain Standard Time. It will also be recorded, so you can watch it after if you’re unable to make the live event for any reason.

The first day of the course focuses on reviewing key research on finger testing and training, covering topics such as strength assessment, rate of force development, capacity testing, and energy system utilization. The second day transitions into programming applications, where participants will learn how to design and implement individualized finger training plans based on the scientific principles discussed on Day 1.

This course blends cutting-edge research with hands-on programming strategies, giving participants the tools and confidence to create effective training plans for themselves or their clients.

Key Topics Covered:

Day 1: Research on Finger Testing & Training

• Finger Testing Research

  • Assessing peak force, rate of force development, and capacity

  • Understanding energy system contributions to finger strength and endurance

• Finger Training Research

  • Methods for developing force production, endurance, and resilience

  • Key studies on isometric, eccentric, and concentric finger training

  • Research-backed insights into training adaptations and recovery

Day 2: Finger Training Programming & Application

• Programming Examples and Progressions

  • How to build effective finger training programs

  • Tailored approaches for different climbers and goals

  • Strategies for integrating finger training into a broader climbing regimen

• Styles of Periodization in Finger Training

  • Linear periodization

  • Nonlinear/undulating periodization

  • Block periodization

  • Hybrid models for advanced customization

• Finger Training Methods and Tools

  • No-hangs, block lifts, and unlevel edges

  • Circular objects and on-the-wall coordination drills

  • Campus board training options and climbing-specific practices

• Modern Training Technologies

  • Blood flow restriction (BFR) for strength and endurance gains

  • SMO₂ monitoring for real-time physiological insights

  • Velocity-based training to measure and develop power

• Developing Finger Physiology

  • Peak force training

  • Impulse and power generation

  • Anaerobic and aerobic capacity

Format and Schedule:

• Dates: Saturday & Sunday

• Duration: 3–4 hours each day

• Format: Live online sessions

• Participant Limit: 20 attendees for an interactive and personalized learning experience

A recorded version of the course will be available after the live sessions for those who cannot attend in real time or wish to review the material.

Who Should Attend?

This course is ideal for:

• Climbers who want to design their training programs

• Coaches looking to refine their programming expertise for athletes

• Therapists interested in incorporating finger-specific training into rehabilitation and performance plans

Key Benefits:

By the end of this course, participants will:
✅ Understand the latest research on finger testing and training methodologies
✅ Learn how to assess and interpret finger strength and capacity metrics
✅ Gain step-by-step progressions for developing finger strength, power, and endurance
✅ Confidently design and adjust training programs for individual needs
✅ Discover how to integrate advanced tools like BFR and SMO₂ monitoring into programming

This course provides a unique blend of scientific knowledge and practical application, ensuring participants understand the why and how behind effective finger training strategies.

🔹 Spots are limited to 20 participants to ensure an interactive learning experience. Register now to secure your place!