Everybody wants stronger fingers. Here's how.

Learn why climbers should train differently than weight lifters, programming ideas, common mistakes, and more.

Did you know you don’t have to "hang" on your fingers to increase their strength?

When training finger strength off the wall, the goal is to improve muscle size, recruitment, and connective tissue stiffness. To do this effectively, it’s essential to understand an athlete's current peak force, often referred to as their one-rep max (1RM).

One of the most enduring questions in sports performance is this: How do we get our strength training adaptations to transfer to our sport?

While finger strength often gets the spotlight, the ability to generate quick, high force through your hands, or contact strength, is what can make the difference in your climbing

As a coach and climber, I’ve spent years exploring and refining the best approaches to training finger strength.

As a climber and coach, I've spent countless hours talking with athletes about finger strength training.

Incorporating BFR into your routine can be as simple as doing one or two sessions a week during a training cycle.

Understanding the difference between active recruitment and passive tension in finger training has the potential to unlock new levels of performance, especially for climbers who feel they've plateaued.

Whether you’re pushing V14s or working through your first 5.10, training smarter is often the key to unlocking better performance, not necessarily training harder.

Discussing different conditions concerning the elbow which you might encounter as a climber.

Finger morphology, the frame work for how climbers should understand strength training, why training on an unlevel edge could be useful, what a talon grip is, and a paradox we all run into when starting to strength train.

Top tips for training on spray walls and home walls.

Top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshopper Board.

Strength training will increase power through recruitment gains for athletes with less training experience, particularly youth athletes. But thoroughly trained or more advanced athletes likely need a more nuanced approach with distinct phases. 

Climbers do a lot of random exercises in hopes of getting more power. But the most effective thing they can do is adjust how they lift weights.

You've likely heard that fingerboard training is good for advanced climbers and dangerous for beginners. In my experience testing and tracking professional climbers for many years, I’ve realized that this narrative is unsubstantiated. (Part 1/2)

You've likely heard that fingerboard training is good for advanced climbers and dangerous for beginners. In my experience testing and tracking professional climbers for many years, I’ve realized that this narrative is unsubstantiated. (Part 1/2)

Some of you might wonder why we were even having this discussion. The best way to get super strong fingers is to do weighted hangs, right?

Climbing isn’t that special… physiologically, that is. (Part 2/2)

Climbing isn’t that special… physiologically, that is. (Part 1/2)

At first glance, it makes sense why we've used a fingerboard historically. Hanging on our fingers with added weight should equal more available force on the climbing wall. Well, this article will discuss how it isn't that simple, and in some instances, doing too much heavy and slow fingerboarding might reduce performance. And that's never our goal.

Can proper training truly prevent climbing injuries and boost your performance?

Words have power. In our self-talk before we even begin climbing, in the things we say to each other on the hike in, in the things overheard at the crag, and in the vast quantity of media we all consume these days, words hold sway over our thoughts.