Case Study: Active Curl Protocols Led to a Powerful Transfer to Passive Hang
Check out how this climber improved using my training methods shared by Strength Climbing!
I got this email from Jędrzej at Strength Climbing:
For the last couple of years, I've advocated active finger training and recommended it to my clients, most of whom now own a Tindeq.
Last year, I had the privilege of working with a very strong climber from Lithuania. We used a protocol similar to what Rob describes - Active Finger Curls for finger strength and endurance, plus Wall Crawls. Later that year, Mikhail went on to become the national lead climbing champion at the age of 41!
I'd love it if you could take a look and let me know what you think about the results! All the numbers are there, including passive tests on the hangboard. The incredible thing was that the Active Curl protocols had a powerful transfer to his passive hangs - something we totally didn't expect.
In my case, that doesn't work that way. My passive numbers went down, but I can climb harder, that's for sure. Another factor could be that I'm recently training specifically for lead climbing, doing lots of easy routes back-to-back - that does not help score high numbers on the fingerboard.
Anyway, I just wanted to let you know that your methods are being implemented and work exceptionally well!