This episode covers everything finger strength training with Dr. Nelson.
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When should you start using this popular training tool?
Read MoreIn this episode, learn Tyler’s suggestions for training finger endurance.
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Climbers do a lot of random exercises in hopes of getting more power. But the most effective thing they can do is adjust how they lift weights.
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The C4PC bridges the gap between the skills coach and the fitness professional providing coaches with the knowledge and skill set to raise the standard of care and coaching in the climbing community and to become an elite professional in the field.
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The body needs stress to build tolerance (capacity). But, as with anything, it has a finite capacity. It's relative.
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Have you had the experience that not climbing made your fingers just as sore as loading them? This is due to the anatomy and mechanics of the synovial joint.
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We all know that training volume is risky, but are there guidelines for what these athletes "shouldn't" do? That is a trickier question.
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The A2 is the most commonly ruptured pulley in adult climbers (not kids) and is NOT common in other sports.
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The A3 pulley can tolerate more abuse than the A2 and A4 because of its attachment point (the volar plate).
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I likely prescribe grip variation more often than most (rehabilitation purposes), but coaches must also understand the difference. The implications on your athletes are significant, especially those with shoulder and elbow pain.
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A common mistake in the climbing world is the assumption that finger boarding, rope climbing, limit bouldering, campusing, etc., all result in the same type of fatigue. Now we know this not to be true.
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Getting coordinated at finger extension exercises will never transfer to rock climbing. We want recruitment, not random skills.
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Strength training is intimidating, but trust me: If you can climb up a boulder, you can lift something heavy off the ground.
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Taping should be part of progressive rehab plan, not a method to prevent one.
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Using a heavy band is a simple method to load a sore wrist before climbing. It's portable, easy to set up, and stresses the joint from multiple directions.
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Having strength and being able to apply strength are two different things. But your training should work both.
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Why can some climbers travel to far-flung areas and consistently climb at a high level, while some others are only able to turn in good performances at their local haunt?
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Topping out is anxiety-inducing for a lot of climbers. There are a few reasons for this, but most of them stem from the fact that climbing skills are terrain specific.
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As one becomes more effective at getting through submaximal climbs in fewer tries, one expects to do more of that level of climbing in a given day. The end result being not that less energy is spent on a mileage day, but actually that the mileage days get longer and harder – and even more energy is spent. I’m as guilty of this as anyone.
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