In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his latest research.
Read MoreIn this episode, Tyler explains how we should be warming up our youth teams (and ourselves) in order to make climbing sessions more effective, and more importantly, for injury prevention.
Read MoreIn this episode, Tyler explains the most common youth finger injuries, what ages are at highest risk, how to mitigate them, and what to do if a youth climber has a finger injury.
Read MoreIn this episode, Dr. Nelson talks about his new insights about the longstanding use of the fingerboard to train finger strength in climbing.
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Ulnar sided wrist pain is quite common in climbers. Here are 10 exercise videos to help.
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Research shows that eccentrics aren't any "better" than different types of mechanical load (isometrics, isotonics, BFR etc.).
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I often hear: “I do too much of _ which means I need to train the opposite to make sure I am ‘balanced’.” This is assumed to reduce injury risk. The reality is, you’re not balanced.
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TFCC injuries are complex, and rehab looks different from that of tendon injuries.
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Climbers can use this tool to stress different parts of the forearm (though I’m not always a fan of it with golfer’s elbow).
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Climbers can use this tool to stress different parts of the forearm (though I’m not always a fan of it with golfer’s elbow).
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Marketing tactics make people think tools will heal them, but there are more critical layers to rehab.
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Injured wrist? Build back confidence by controlling your own stress.
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I consider the cuff more like the core. If we train with more specific positions to our sport and progress force, velocity, and volume we should be addressing these muscles adequately.
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Do we press much with climbing? No, not really. We definitely do way more pulling. But it isn’t that simple.
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Pull up training is a core training exercise for climbers. I likely prescribe grip variation more often than most (for rehabilitation purposes), but coaches must also understand the difference.
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There are so many options to help alleviate the symptoms of an athletic lifestyle. Blaming the structure is way too simple to be helpful.
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Shoulder pain is the top complaint in climbers. Here are some practical modifications for climbers with shoulder pain.
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Using an overcoming isometric, you can load to pain tolerance (injured climber) or peak force (training).
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There are many options for loading the lateral elbow. The simplest and most confrontational are overcoming isometrics at variable intensities.
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Because of its slow progression, athletes might have a sudden onset that they attribute to be the cause of their pain. This can be misleading and often scares athletes from further loading. That is a mistake.
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