In this episode, Tyler explains the most common youth finger injuries, what ages are at highest risk, how to mitigate them, and what to do if a youth climber has a finger injury.
Read MoreIn this episode, Dr. Nelson talks about his new insights about the longstanding use of the fingerboard to train finger strength in climbing.
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Ulnar sided wrist pain is quite common in climbers. Here are 10 exercise videos to help.
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Research shows that eccentrics aren't any "better" than different types of mechanical load (isometrics, isotonics, BFR etc.).
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I often hear: “I do too much of _ which means I need to train the opposite to make sure I am ‘balanced’.” This is assumed to reduce injury risk. The reality is, you’re not balanced.
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TFCC injuries are complex, and rehab looks different from that of tendon injuries.
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Climbers can use this tool to stress different parts of the forearm (though I’m not always a fan of it with golfer’s elbow).
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Climbers can use this tool to stress different parts of the forearm (though I’m not always a fan of it with golfer’s elbow).
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Marketing tactics make people think tools will heal them, but there are more critical layers to rehab.
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Injured wrist? Build back confidence by controlling your own stress.
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I consider the cuff more like the core. If we train with more specific positions to our sport and progress force, velocity, and volume we should be addressing these muscles adequately.
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Do we press much with climbing? No, not really. We definitely do way more pulling. But it isn’t that simple.
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Pull up training is a core training exercise for climbers. I likely prescribe grip variation more often than most (for rehabilitation purposes), but coaches must also understand the difference.
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There are so many options to help alleviate the symptoms of an athletic lifestyle. Blaming the structure is way too simple to be helpful.
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Shoulder pain is the top complaint in climbers. Here are some practical modifications for climbers with shoulder pain.
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Using an overcoming isometric, you can load to pain tolerance (injured climber) or peak force (training).
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There are many options for loading the lateral elbow. The simplest and most confrontational are overcoming isometrics at variable intensities.
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Because of its slow progression, athletes might have a sudden onset that they attribute to be the cause of their pain. This can be misleading and often scares athletes from further loading. That is a mistake.
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Lateral tendon pain (tennis elbow) is considerably more common than medial tendon pain. It occurs in approximately 10% of the manual labor force, has a high recurrence rate, and does not require treatment to resolve.
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Cubital tunnel syndrome is commonly described as pain/tingling/weakness down the inside of the forearm to the pinky and ring finger. What can you do?
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