Strength training will increase power through recruitment gains for athletes with less training experience, particularly youth athletes. But thoroughly trained or more advanced athletes likely need a more nuanced approach with distinct phases. 

Climbers do a lot of random exercises in hopes of getting more power. But the most effective thing they can do is adjust how they lift weights.

While I won’t argue that the hangboard is an invaluable climbing training tool, our assumptions about how to use it, including that you should train in a full crimp or that hangs need to last for a certain duration (think 10-second max hangs), can be limiting.

You've likely heard that fingerboard training is good for advanced climbers and dangerous for beginners. In my experience testing and tracking professional climbers for many years, I’ve realized that this narrative is unsubstantiated. (Part 1/2)

You've likely heard that fingerboard training is good for advanced climbers and dangerous for beginners. In my experience testing and tracking professional climbers for many years, I’ve realized that this narrative is unsubstantiated. (Part 1/2)

Some of you might wonder why we were even having this discussion. The best way to get super strong fingers is to do weighted hangs, right?

Climbing isn’t that special… physiologically, that is. (Part 2/2)

Climbing isn’t that special… physiologically, that is. (Part 1/2)

At first glance, it makes sense why we've used a fingerboard historically. Hanging on our fingers with added weight should equal more available force on the climbing wall. Well, this article will discuss how it isn't that simple, and in some instances, doing too much heavy and slow fingerboarding might reduce performance. And that's never our goal.

Words have power. In our self-talk before we even begin climbing, in the things we say to each other on the hike in, in the things overheard at the crag, and in the vast quantity of media we all consume these days, words hold sway over our thoughts.